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Of everywhere I've traveled so far, India has been the place whose first impression lived up to the image I had in my imagination. Unpaved streets lined with garbage and neon lights. Cows and elephants intermixing with cars and motorbikes and rickshaws on the road. Stares from every man. It's the kind of place where you either absolutely love or absolutely hate. A mutual feeling that can change in a heartbeat. I arrived late in New Delhi, after 2 in the morning and hijacked my way into a hotel pickup I didn't reserve. But after midnight, by yourself, in a new...